Fragrance Terminology
Absolute: A concentrated fragrance material of a natural product, such as a flower,(Jasmine or Rose). Processed by means of enfleurage, alcoholic extraction or steam distillation.

Accord: A combination of raw materials blended together to give the proper balance and effect a perfumer desires when creating a fragrance. When the materials are properly mixed, they are said to be in accordance with each other.

Aldehydic: A particular accord derived through the blending of aromatic chemicals called aldehydes. This accord provides a bright sparkling quality and enhances the top note of the fragrance.

Amber: A fragrance accord designed to import fullness, sweetness, and warmth to a compound. It enhances the drydown of the fragrance and is of particular importance to Oriental fragrances.

Animal:A note of animal origin derived from natural isolates of civet, castoreum or musk. These materials, plus some man-made synthetics have been used to demonstrate this subtle, yet penetrating odor quality. An important note in the development of many fragrances, it is used to impart richness and fullness to compositions.

Balance: A fragrance whose components have been as carefully blended together that no one aromatic body or effect is readily identifiable is said to be in balance.

Balsamic: A natural raw material exuded from a tree or plant. A sweet fragrance accord which provides rich, warm, resinous, and very tenacious qualities to most compounds. Among the essential oils, balsam of Tolu and balsam of Peru demonstrate this quality.

Blend: A mixture of natural and/or synthetic ingredients.

Body: The heart or main part of the fragrance. The characteristic note when the most volatile components have lost their dominance, and all of the components of the fragrance come into play. Body in perfumery, is analogous to a symphony orchestra playing with the full complement of instruments.

Bouquet: The harmonious blend of several single floral notes, such as Rose, Jasmine and Violet, in a fragrance composition.

Bottom: Also called the drydown of the fragrance. This note contains the fixatives note of the fragrance which imparts the long lasting qualities.

Chypre: A fragrance accord blend of aldehydes, built upon a citrus (i.e. Bergamot), and mossy base (i.e. Oakmoss). This classical accord has been widely used in both men’s and women’s fragrances.

Citrus: Most typically found in the topnote of the fragrance composition, and may contain: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, Petitgrain, and Tangerine.

Cloying: A term used to describe excessive sweetness in a fragrance.

Composition: A word used to describe a fragrance compound creation of both natural and synthetic materials.

Diffusion: Also described as the fragrance “throw” or “lift”. This term expresses the fragrance’s ability to radiate from a bottle or from the finished product.

Distillation: The process of purifying volatile materials by applying heat to turn them to vapor, then reconverting the materials to pure liquid by condensation which yields a pure essential oil.

Dryout: A technique used to examine a fragrance and study the odor as the fragrance evaporates. The examination period may run from a few hours to several days depending upon the degrees and types of fixatives. The functions of the “dryout” procedure are to study the balance and fixative qualities of the fragrance composition.

Earthy: The peculiar aroma of freshly turned soil.

Effusive: A word used to describe a fragrance whose odor spreads quickly.

Enfleurage: The traditional method of separating the absolute from flowers. The procedure involves placing the petals between layers of fat to which they impart their odor. The layering is repeated again and again with fresh petals until the fat is rich in the flower’s essential oils. This odor is then extracted from the fat with alcohol, after which the alcohol is distilled leaving the absolute

Essential: An oil obtained from a variety of material sources such as flowers, leaves, Oil seeds, roots, bark, buds, etc.

Fixative: A material incorporated into a fragrance compound for the purpose of:

Flat: A descriptive word for a fragrance that is lacking in distinction.

Floral:A term used to describe an accord built around a singular or multi-floral theme.

Fougere: A classic accord built upon a mossy, lavender, citrus character. The fougere accord is a very important class of fragrance used in perfumery.

Fragrance: A composition of various natural and/or synthetic aromatic materials that create a definite odor effect.

Fresh: An effect introduced into a fragrance to provide a light, airy complex accord identifiable with the outdoors or clean. Notes such as citrus, lavender, or mints can create this effect.

Fruity:A note reminiscent of a cherry, apple, peach, strawberry, plum or other fruit type.

Green: A note which connotes freshness and naturalness reminiscent of freshly cut grass, freshly crushed leaves, and/or green stems. Most green notes are used to give fragrance lift and to add a natural effect to the composition.

Harmonious: A balanced blend of topnote, middle, and bottom notes.

Harsh: A chemical, sharp, or unpleasant note in a fragrance compound.

Leather: A complex accord of pungent sweetness and smokiness derived from a blend of synthetic aromatic chemicals.

Lift: A word to describe the initial impact imparted by a fragrance.

Light & Words used to indicate the time and effort involved in the perception of an Heavy odor. An aromatic chemical is said to have a “light” odor when it is easily and quickly recognizable. An aromatic material is said to be “heavy” when time and physical effort are required for recognition.

Middle Note: The center link to the creative chain of a fragrance, which combines the rich bottom notes to the fleeting top notes in order to create continuity in a fragrance.

Mossy: A rich, dry, resinous, slightly woody character.

Oriental: Heavy, sweet, animal blend with woody undertones. Typically quite diffusive and tenacious. A very important accord in perfumery used historically in Shalimar and today’s Obsession.

Powdery: A term used to describe fragrances having considerable sweet and musk-like odors in the dryout.

Pungent: A word used to describe a physical impression of sharpness.

Rich: A word used in perfumery to describe fullness.

Roundness: A term used to describe the “fullness” or “richness” of a fragrance.

Sharp: A combination of coarse aromatic chemicals which produces a penetrating effect.

Spicy:Notes having spice characteristics including: Bay, Clove, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Nutmeg, etc.

Sweet: A fragrance impression which imparts a sweet sensation. Natural examples include Vanilla, Benzoin, and Honey.

Synthetic: Aromatic materials used in the compounding of a fragrance.

Thin: A fragrance lacking in the overtones necessary to give it body or “richness”. Musically, this condition might be illustrated by the sound of a single violin played without accompaniment.

Top Note: The immediate effect of a fragrance upon the sense of smell. These notes are the most volatile compounds in a fragrance creation. Careful consideration of this top note is highly important in the design of a fragrance, since the initial sales appeal may be totally dependent upon its top note quality.

Undertones: Subtle characteristics of the fragrance background creating pleasant nuances, and are an important part of a fragrance character.

Warm:A word used to describe a fragrance which has a stimulating effect upon the imagination. The effect of warmth is usually conferred by materials having an unconventional odor.

Woody: A fragrance effect generally linked with the aroma of freshly cut, dry wood, or roots of such products as Vetivert, Sandalwood, or Patchouli.